Pagoda - Give it a Try

The Skinny: This hidden gem makes private dining feel more commonplace than cool.

The Fat: While opening a new restaurant presents a host of challenges that any entrepreneur should be well prepared for, these guys received a truly unexpected jab. Pagoda opened shortly before Ike toured our great city. In the wake of the hurricane the new business was soured, not only by the lull of a city wrought with disaster, but also by the fact that their own building suffered marked structural damage. Lucky for us, they pulled themselves up by the bootstraps and reopened their - adorable Vietnamese - doors.

That being said, I’m a huge fan of dives, especially when we’re talking Vietnamese. Houston has such an expansive and delicious array of Asian fare that it’s almost painful to pay more than $7.50 for an extraordinary Vietnamese entrée (see my review for Van Loc under “Vietnamese”.) However, there is something to be said for the fine service, soothing setting and super fantastic cocktails that higher-end Asian restaurants have to offer.

Pagoda presents a delectable selection of starters, including the favorites, like Beef Satay and Vietnamese Spring Rolls. Both are served with the standard, yummy peanut sauce; but since you’re paying more than $4.50 for what you could get at a Vietnamese hole-in-the-wall, go out on a limb and try something new.

Try the Crab Stack, a delicately layered tower of crab meat, mango, tomatoes, avocado, cucumber and cilantro all drizzled with a light lime sauce. It’s pretty when it arrives and messy to eat, but the presentation and subtle combination of flavors is well worth it. Also try the Calamari Crunch. The whole strips of calamari are flash fried, plated and served with a traditional lime pepper dipping sauce. Calamari, on a good day, can be mildly rubbery; so if you’ll admit that the texture of this ocean favorite can be unpredictable, you’ll adore the dish.

The first time I ordered a Pagoda entree, I chose the Garlic Ginger Scallops, described on the menu as “seared and served with a garlic cream sauce.” When the plate arrived I was shocked that no more than seven scallops were on the plate. Seven (7) sounds like plenty if you’re expecting the “ideal” silver dollar sized, one inch thick scallops. In that case, five would do it for me. What I got were four (quarter sized) and three (nickel sized) scallops, each no more than 1/3 inch thick. I was astounded. At $16 a plate, I was understandably underwhelmed.

What they failed to mention on the description is that delectable mushrooms were swimming in the creamy garlic sauce. Even though I was disappointed by the scallop to dollar ratio; the abundant serving of mushrooms, with their amazing ability to absorb flavor, saved the dish from being a total disappointment. Nonetheless, any good chef or restaurant owner (as our waiter announced herself to be) should not have let such a serving escape the kitchen.

On my next visit, I got the Shaking Beef, a mound of filet mignon cubes served with a delicate brown sauce and tomato rice. If there was ever an example of pure redemption, it occurred when I put the first morsel of meat in my mouth. They managed to cook each bit of beef to a perfect medium rare. Every bite was like the first bite of the best filet mignon I’d ever had; warm, tender and perfectly seasoned. The tomato rice was like the dish’s step child. I enjoyed that it was there, but my focus was clearly elsewhere.

The selection of cocktails is divine. Their charming little concoctions of fashionable flavors and loveable liquors are the perfect addition to any meal. I like the Pagoda Special (although I don’t think that’s what it’s called) with vodka, cranberry and a skewered lychee garnish.

My dining companion and I went to Pagoda, for the first time, on a Monday night. I’m not usually a fan of reviewing a place on a Monday because it doesn’t give me an accurate feel for the potential vibe. While the décor was divine and the music modern, we were the only patrons there. It wasn’t until we were about to leave that two other customers came in and sat at the bar.

I visited Pagoda again on a Friday night and, sadly, the place was empty again. The adorable hostess led us to exactly the same table and we were the only people in the entire dining room. I guess we could blame it on the fact that Pagoda’s new or that they were trying to relaunch in the midst of the Holidays.

I can only say that, if you want to get good food, at a cute place, without the wait that typically peaks at 7pm on a Friday night - this is the place to try. Let’s just hope the word gets around…before the next hurricane hits.

Location: 4705 Inker Street 832.673.0400

Van Loc - Give it a Try

The Skinny: They make Tofu actually taste good!

The Fat: Carnivores and Vegetarians alike will enjoy this Vietnamese/Chinese wonderland. I've been a fan since my "down-and-out law school days" and for 12 hours a day, seven days a week, they were always there to serve up some low priced, awesome Asian fare.

After you figure out how to get to the restaurant (through the maze of one-way streets and the Main Street Light Rail) you'll feel like your efforts may have been in vain when you pull into the shabby parking lot with potholes and cris-crossed yellow parking lines. Keep going, the prize is yet to come.

First of all, Van Loc isn't going to dote on you. The only time anyone was actually cordial was when I brought one of my dearest friends to dine with me one night. The fact that my friend is neither Vietnamese or Chinese, but a Korean/Cuban hybrid, was seemingly of little importance because my slanted eyed guest and I managed to solicit the rare, but quite sincere smile from the hostess/cashier. This acknowledgment was, aside from the thrill of immediate acceptance, totally invaluable. After all, the hostess wasn't going to be cooking my food, right? Yes, that's right.

Here's the deal, the prize is not the service, not the sleekness of the bathrooms, and certainly not the decor. Ok, maybe I'm making Van Loc seem like little more than a soup kitchen with a Vietnamese menu and a price tag, but it's just a regular place so I want you to be prepared. While the servers are usually on their game, it's certainly not a fine dining establishment. Just put on a pair of flip flops and get ready to eat until you drop...and maybe have some food left over to go.

Their Pho is amazing. For those of you who are unfamiliar with Pho, it’s an enormous bowl of steaming hot broth filled with rice noodles, sliced onions and whatever type of meat you choose-from chicken to raw beef.

By the way, the pronunciation of Pho is a delicate conglomeration of fah (like, “fa”...a long, long way to run) and fuh (like Pho-ck off, jerkface.) You should feel proud to pronounce it correctly, but if you're too nervous just point to it or use the ever reliable "number system" that Asian restaurants have been kind enough to attach to their menu items. But you're more adventurous than that, aren't you?

Anyway you say it, they serve it up just right. Each bowl comes with a plentiful side of bean sprouts, cilantro (I'm not a fan of cilantro) lime, and basil so that each person can add as much or as little of the fresh additions as they choose.

Before you order your entree, be sure to get an order of the shrimp spring rolls to share. Delicate vermicelli, crisp lettuce, fresh basil and sliced shrimp are tightly rolled into thin pieces of rice paper and served with some of the best peanut sauce I’ve ever had at an Asian restaurant - no lie.

People will argue that Mai’s, a similar Vietnamese restaurant down the street, is a fierce competitor, but I say “NO WAY”! Mai’s is just as unfriendly, just as unattractive...but their peanut sauce cannot hold a candle to that of Van Loc’s! Additionally, their rice paper is often over folded and quite rubbery. It’s no contest.

Now, I love meat just as much as the next gal, but once I discovered the glory of their Tofu selections, I was done. Since then, I rarely order anything else. While their chicken and beef dishes are fantastic, smothered in well thought out sauces and served with glorious, crisp veggies, I’m firmly hooked on two of their several vegetarian selections: “Tofu in Clay Pot” and “Garlic Tofu.”

The Tofu in Clay Pot is a heavenly pot of richly doused tofu combined with perfectly adorable cap mushrooms and served with a soft bed of white rice. The Garlic Tofu is, by far, my favorite. Here the semi-soft tofu cubes are gently fried and then tossed in an inexplicably perfect mix of roasted garlic and onions and then laid over a fresh bed of lettuce and tomato slices - all saturated in an anomalous vinaigrette that I’ve yet to recreate to this day.

I could go on and on, but you should just...go. Van Loc Rocks!!!

P.S. The portions are pretty substantial. Since there are so many fantastic items to try, you may want to take a moment to find a couple of things that you and your guests can share. If you're insanely hungry, go for the shrimp spring rolls right off the bat. They come out fast and will keep your growling belly at bay while you take time go through the rather extensive menu. About four people can easily enjoy two or three items - like one full size appetizer, one regular size soup and one entree. Van Loc is a bargain and a delight.


Location: 3010 Milam Street- 713. 528. 6441